You guys asked - here it is!
Supply List:
- MDF
- Brackets and screws (if using multiple pieces of MDF)
- Marker
- Jig saw and protective gear
- Drill and drill bit
- Foam
- Spray adhesive
- Fabric
- Piping
- Sewing machine, pins, scissors
- Button kit for tufting (found at sewing or craft store)
- Large tufting needle
- Heavy twin for tufting
- Small dowel rods for tying off tufting (you could even use large washers)
Here we go!
STEP 1: Trace your headboard pattern onto your piece, or pieces, of MDF. To help make sure each side of your headboard is the same, you can use a large piece of paper or cardboard that has only half the pattern on it and then flip it to get an exact match.
STEP 2: Use a jig saw to cut out your pattern. Of course, use protective eye wear during this process.
STEP 3: If using multiple pieces of MDF, attach them together using brackets on both the front and back sides.
STEP 4: Trace and cut out your headboard pattern onto your foam batting.
STEP 5: Attach it to the MDF using spray adhesive. Make sure you do this in a well ventilated area as this stuff is really, really smelly. Depending on how tightly rolled the foam batting was when purchased, you may have to weigh down the curled edges to get it to adhere well.
STEP 6: Here comes the sewing! Measure out a strip of your fabric a few inches longer than the measurement that goes all along the sides and top (you will more than likely have to stitch a couple pieces of fabric together to get the full length). You want the width of the fabric to be 3 inches wider than the depth of the headboard. This will allow you enough fabric to place two rows of piping along the edges. Make sure the width between the two rows of piping measures the same width as your headboard.
STEP 7: Stitch the piping in place using a zipper foot or one made especially for piping. When finished you now have one piece of fabric that houses 2 edges of piping.
STEP 8: Place the piped piece over the top and sides of the headboard.
STEP 9: Lay the front panel of fabric over the front of the headboard and pin to the piped piece. You can also pin the large panel of fabric to the batting to help it stay in place while pinning. Repeat for the back panel of fabric.
STEP 10: Trim excess fabric leaving yourself a 3/4 inch seam allowance.
STEP 11: Stitch pieces together using your zipper or piping foot and turn right side out. Slip it over and check for fit.
I originally planned on this being the completed headboard. But, the plain white fabric looked too plain. This would have been perfection had the fabric been a print. Then pulling it off and throwing it into the wash would have been a breeze!
I sulked for a couple of hours, bummed it hadn't turned out as fabulous as I imagined it in my mind.
Then my husband came to the rescue and said, "Why don't you just add those button things?"
BRILLIANT!
Here are the steps for adding tufting.
Keep in mind I had somewhat given up on the project so pictures will be hit and miss.
STEP 12: Remove the slipcover. Measure out and mark where you want your buttons to be placed. Now do the same on the back (the MDF side) - there's a reason for this. I initially thought I could drill straight through the foam backing and go through the MDF. Nope. The foam gets wrapped around the drill and stops. So you need to mark out your placement on the back as well since that's where you'll be drilling from.
STEP 13: Drill holes for the tufting. Drill from the back of the headboard (the MDF side), stopping as soon as you go through the MDF so the foam doesn't get wrapped around the drill bit.
STEP 14: Slip the slipcover back over the headboard.
STEP 15: Start tufting using the buttons you assembled using the button covering kit. Thread your tufting needle with approx 2 feet of twine (always better to have too much twine than too little). Push the needle in the headboard through the hole you drilled in the back. Make sure to maneuver the needle through the foam so that it pokes out through your mark you made on the front of the foam. Make sure you have one of the ends of the twine still hanging out the back of the headboard. Slip your button onto the needle and down the twine. Slide the needle back into the foam and through the drilled hole in the back. You should have both ends of the twine pulled through the back.
To secure the tufting, you can use short pieces of dowel rods or even large washers. Place your piece of dowel between the two pieces of twine and pull one end over and under to hold it lightly in place. Now pull TIGHTLY to get your tufted look, and tighten down your dowel rod. To tie it off I just tied it in a bow - no knots. This way you could untie the tufting and remove the buttons if, God forbid, the slipcover gets filthy and needs to be washed. I've not had any issues with the tufting loosening.
Get some help moving your headboard into place against the wall, push the bed tightly up to it, and enjoy!
What do you think. Is it something you'll end up trying?
For more about Izzy's big girl room, click
here.
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